Hola Guadalajara

Spring break was fast approaching and I was looking for a destination for our family getaway. We had a criteria which the potential destination had to fulfil. Criteria number one was that it had to be an international location and number two, our destination had to be less than four hours flight time and lastly it could not be a beach town. We quickly came to the realization that our choice was between Canada or Mexico. After researching and chatting with two dear friends whose family hail from the region, we decided to pack our bags for Guadalajara, Mexico.    

Guadalajara, located in the Western region of Mexico, is the capital and largest city of the Mexican state of Jalisco. It is the second most populous city, behind Mexico City and the region’s claim to fame are Mariachi music, pottery and Tequila. I once came across Guadalajara being described as a “city-sized village” and that perfectly summarizes the feel of the city; a feel of an old-world colonial village, flanked by a modern-age city of a ‘new’ Mexico. There is not only an abundance of historical buildings, museums and theaters to quench your cultural desires but for all you food connoisseurs out there, the city and area around has a plethora of restaurants & coffeehouses to satisfy your palate. If so far, Guadalajara seems appealing then read on to find places to visit and how to satisfy your palate in and around this beautiful city.

Places to Visit

Travelers can rest assured that Uber and taxi services are both readily available to transport them to Gudalahara’s amazing sights. We were lucky enough to get our own personal driver for our trip, thanks to a dear friend. However, our driver didn’t speak English and the Spanish we had access to was my son’s high school level Spanish. We readily learned that tenth grade Spanish can only get one so far and started utilizing the Google translator app. A lifesaver!

When in the city, nothing beats enjoying the sights and sounds other than the original mode of transport…our feet! Guadalajara is easily navigable by walking and if you have Google maps at the palm of your hand, you are guaranteed to reach and enjoy every sight dotted in the city.

I also have to add that friends have asked if we felt ‘safe’ in Guadalajara and my answer to that is ‘all the time’. Of course, like when visiting any major city, be mindful of the areas and aware of your surroundings. 

Teatro Degollado: A 19^th century theater with its 16 Corinthian columns is located in the central plaza across from the Cathedral de Guadalajara. Perfect venue to watch a cultural Mexican dance or an opera. If a show is not up your alley, don’t let that stop you from going in (free admission) to appreciate the elaborate red and gold décor with five tiers of balconies and a frescoed ceiling. The interior of this theater can only be described as magnificent.

Cathedral de Guadalajara: Similar to many European cities, Guadalajara’s cathedral is the central attraction and one that cannot be missed. With its twin neo-Gothic towers and striking yellow and white dome, the cathedral is flanked by four distinct plazas, each one with differing ornate and baroque historical structures. After taking customary family photos near the cathedral, I found myself walking a distance back from the cathedral and seating myself on an iron bench.  It was the perfect spot to admire the architecture and workmanship of the 1500’s. 

Mercado San Juan De Dios: Mexican towns are known for their Market days, where they tend to sell locally grown food items and handicrafts.  Much to my preference, these local markets tend to be small and provide a fascinating insight into the area’s daily life, culture and traditions. Conversely, if you prefer a maze of shops sprawling over 3 floors then head on over to the indoor market, San Juan De Dios. Once there, good luck getting out! From herbs to paints, anything and everything is for sale at a price you chose; that is, if you are a talented haggler.

My personal travel philosophy is that in order to embrace the core of any culture, its language and its people, one has to step-away from the touristy sites. The touristy sites, of course, have to be ticked-off the bucket-list so, once that list was complete, our real adventure began.  To venture out of Guadalajara, a car is essential. So, with our driver in tow, our exodus to villages on the outskirts of the city began.

Tonola: Unknown to many people, the town of Tonalo is the hub of all Mexican handicrafts. If pottery, leather goods, jewelry and artwork take your fancy, then this is the place to shop (Thursday & Sunday are open-air market days). We learned that wholesalers from across the country descend upon this town to stock up their shops; most likely with a much heftier price tag. The prices are most likely kept low here due to the scarcity of tourists.

Tlaquepaque (pronounced Tla-Keh-Pah-Keh): About a 40-minute drive from Guadalajara, this city is the perfect place for a day trip. The historical center with its cobbled streets, courtyard gardens and striking street art is charming to say the least. Tlaquepaque means ‘place above clay land’ which is befitting as this city is famous for its unique pottery and blown glass. 

Being an avid home décor shopper and much to the dismay of my teenagers, we stepped into many of the shops. It’s not really a fun-filled place for kids and so to keep our two teens going between shops, we enticed them with ice-cream and suggested that they appreciate the character-filled surroundings. Seeing the excitement of the local children playing football, local artisans creating their masterpieces, community elders chattering and the sight of clothes drying on a washing-line was an all-encompassing experience of a life that was foreign to our kids. Yet, much to my delight, they seized the opportunity to look past the shopping and become spectators of a differing lifestyle.

Tequila: This town was not on our list of places to visit and our assumed image of Tequila was that it would be run down and filled with distilleries. The latter assumption was spot on but it was far from run down! Located 30 miles from Guadalajara, the road was bordered by a sea of the spiky blue agave and a distinct smell reeked through the air of the bluish countryside. The smell which was unpleasant to my senses was due to the distilleries and continued to be prominent when we arrived in the picturesque town. This small town is a photographer’s heaven with its vibrant colored building and cobbled streets. 

Ajijec (pronounced A-Hee-Hick): Located by the largest lake in Mexico, Lake Chapala is Mexico’s expat paradise for US and Canadian citizens.  In fact, we were drawn to Ajijec as we wanted to visit our friends who themselves have retired in this beautiful area. In theme with the towns of the state of Jalisco, the cobbled streets of Ajijec are lined with vibrant whimsical murals and quaint shops. Being only 25 miles from Guadalajara, Ajijec is perfect for a relaxing day trip; stroll the streets, shop the handicrafts, get a bite to eat or simply enjoy the serenity – walking the lakeside boardwalk.

Teuchitlan: Near the town of Teuchitlan (an hour’s drive from Guadalajara), is a pre-Hispanic archaeological site of Los Guachimontones dating back 2,000 years and excavated in the 1970’s. The site, dotted with circular pyramids and a museum, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you would like to get a glimpse and explore an ancient Mexico then hike-up the somewhat long and steep hill. Don’t forget to slather on the sunscreen and take along water as there is little shade en route to the pyramids. The mistake is to compare them to the Egyptian pyramids. If you do, like our kids did, you will be surely disappointed!

Satisfying your Palate

The Mexican cuisine experience was unlike what I have been exposed to living in California. Guadalajara is home to unique flavors and I found that the essence of the dishes whether fresh seafood, tacos or enchiladas was the sauce and the chilies they contained; each one with its own delectable and authentic taste and aroma. Not forgetting dessert, Jericallas is a cross between a flan and crème brulee and with coffee, your taste buds will be in heaven.

For a refreshing drink, give Tamarindo a try; a frothy tamarind based drink and if that doesn’t quench your thirst then you can’t go wrong with fresh coconut water. Popular street items are  empanadas, tacos and chips drizzled with hot sauce to name a few! My favorites were the freshly grilled corn-on the-cobs, drizzled with lemon juice and sprinkled with Tajin for an added kick.

One of the cuisines I didn’t expect to find the best of in Guadalajara, was Japanese. We found a hidden gem by the name of ‘Juni-Ko’; a charming restaurant for which reservations are a must since the maximum number of guests they can accommodate at a time is 15.  Located in the upscale shopping district of Zapopan, it is by far the best Japanese restaurant I have dined at to-date, not having been to Japan.

There is something about hearing the native language around you that somehow authenticates visiting any given place. In every town we visited the hustle and bustle of the locals around the character-filled streets was music to my ears. Guadalajara is an underrated, fascinating city with a unique relaxed vibe and one that is overlooked and untouched by tourists. If in a space of few days you are looking to soak in some history and culture then plan on a trip to this “Pearl of the West,” Guadalajara.

Special thanks to Erika and Adrianne for giving me insightful information, contact and inspiring me to visit Guadalajara.