Exploring Andalucía – The Heart of Spain

Let’s face it, for the moment travel is not on anyone’s itinerary and so I find myself reminiscing about my past travels over the years. One particular destination which stands out is Andalucía, located on the Iberian Peninsula, in the south of Spain. I was intrigued by the region, for its preservation of the Muslim influence by way of their magnificent architecture, artwork and culture, all which span for a period of 800 years, between the 8^th and 15^th centuries. If you are looking to be exposed to history, architecture, culture, exotic foods with some sunshine thrown in, then pen in the south of Spain to your bucket list. Travel back with me and take notes for your next adventure to Andalucía, Spain!

I’m generally a planner and strive to be organized and methodical in things that I do; albeit unsuccessful at times. Naturally with vacations being precious, my instinct is to research and plan the places to visit, to ensure my time is utilized to the fullest.  Over the years, I have come to the realization that there is something to be said about spontaneity; it adds that element of adventure and “je ne sais quoi” to the whole experience of immersing yourself in the places you visit.  So, my family and I decided to drive through Andalucía; from Malaga to Sevilla (3 nights), then to Cordoba (1 night) and Granada (3 nights) and back to Malaga. Driving across the region was easy to navigate and it was the ideal way to see the region with olive groves, lemon orchards and hilltop towns.

Seville

We flew into Malaga, rented a car and drove about 2 hours to Seville, the capital of Andalucía. When we entered the streets of Seville, it was love at first sight. I recall being overcome with its beauty and found myself rolling down the windows, so that my eyes could devour every sight we passed by. Like many European cities, the main sights are all walking distance and public transport is readily available. Seville has many impressive sights but for me the city itself, was incredible. Seville has a plethora of restaurants serving up everything from traditional tapas to modern Spanish cuisine. There are also local food markets dotted around the city, which meant that we walked and ate our way through the historic streets.

Our first stop was the Sevilla Cathedral, built in the 15^th century, it is the third largest church in the world, after Saint Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London. It sits on a site where once a grand mosque stood, from the 12^th century. The main pieces of history that caught my eye were the tomb of Christopher Columbus and a clock that has not stopped ticking since 1788.  Now that’s  technological ingenuity spanning centuries! The cathedral’s Giralda Tower is 330 feet up and the perfect spot for a grand city view.  The spiraling ramp, was designed to accommodate riders on horseback, who galloped up five times a day to give the Muslim call to prayer.  Another historically significant site is the 10th century royal palace, known as an Alcazar, which essentially means a royal palace or fortress.  It is the oldest in-use palace in Europe, as the Spanish monarchy reside here on their visits. In fact, it was also the location for Season 5 of the HBO series, “Game of Thrones”.  I once came across a quote by James Michener, who wrote, “Sevilla doesn’t have ambience, it is ambience”. This quote has stuck with me all these years, as those words perfectly describe this city.

Seville is also the place to experience the famous Flamenco dance as it serves as the underlying essence of life in the city. There is an abundance of flamenco dance halls which come as no surprise, as this is the place where the folklore dance originates. We made reservations for Los Gallos to see Flamenco performances. From the get-go, it was mesmerizing watching the stage come to life! The fast-paced strumming of the guitar, the rhythms of hand-clapping, the graceful foot-stomping women and of course, the intense singing.  Flamenco is an art of intense expressive emotions and as an audience member, I found myself spellbound and immersed in the riveting atmosphere.

Cordoba

The next leg of our trip took us 90 miles east, to the historical town of Cordoba, which once served as the regional capital for both the Muslim and Roman empires.  Cordoba is a medieval city having held on to its old-world charm; with its winding stone-paved lanes, quaint courtyards, wrought-iron balconies and stone buildings.

The town’s main draw is the impressive Mezquita, a multi-arched mosque-turned-cathedral, built in the 10^th century. The Mezquita is an impressive architectural structure with its 856 red and blue columns, topped with double arches, made from alternating red and white stone.  Walking-in, one can only feel consumed with its simplistic beauty. It’s also a photographer’s haven, and it’s easy to find yourself photographing the columns from every angle possible. It’s no wonder that the Mezquita is situated in a neighborhood that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Cordoba is perfect for a day trip but we decided to stay the night. The town is perfect for leisurely strolling.  Every lane is unique with hidden courtyards and flower-filled balconies.  Other not-to-miss sites are the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos (Palace of the Christian Kings) with its mosaic salon and beautiful garden and the Palacio de Viana (Viana Palace). The striking feature of this 16^th century palace are the 12 connecting patios, each with a different theme.

Staying the night was definitely a good call, as we found out that 5 miles away from the town center, there were ruins of a mid-10^th century city, by the name of Madinat al-Zahra (Bright City), that were worth a visit.  An archeological haven, this UNESCO World Heritage Site spans half a square mile. Walking through the vast ruins, we came across many examples of early Islamic architecture, including the once grand palace, a mosque, bridges, pools, objects of daily use, all of which gave a sense of what life must have been like in this once rich and vibrant city.

I personally can’t leave any place without checking-out and many a time, buying the local craft. Cordoba’s specialty is their hand-crafted leather and ornate silver jewelry.  Also, for those of you with a musical side, this is the perfect place to invest in a classical Spanish guitar. 

Granada

Our last stop before heading home, was the city which is home to the most visited attraction in Spain, the majestic Alhambra. Granada is a charming city nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. It is a city where the old and new world live in harmony; with breathtaking Islamic architecture, medieval churches, tapas bars and graffiti which together encompass the very fabric of the city.  In the time we had, we chose to spend a day at The Alhambra, hike our way through the Sacromonte and Albayzin neighborhoods and lastly stroll through the streets of Granada, to eat, shop and absorb the African–flavored culture that still survives there today.

The Alhambra

I’m at a loss for the perfect word to describe the sprawling 26 acre fortress which sits in all its glory atop a hill, overlooking the city below. All I can say is that the day spent there was one that I will never forget! I was intrigued by the name and found out that it was named for its reddish walls and towers; al-qal’a alhamra in Arabic, means red fort or castle. Tickets sell out fast, so in the planning stage of your trip, commit to a day and purchase your tickets in advance. We spent a good 6 hours walking the vast grounds of the fortress, which consists of four main sights; the Nasrid Palaces, Charles Vs Palace, The Generalife Gardens and the Alcazaba.

The Alhambra is a visual delight which exudes the splendor of Islamic architecture by all standards. Its historical and cultural significance is one that is truly a marvel. I was in awe of the remarkable condition of the palaces, considering it was built in the 13^th century and suffered through many battles over the years. With ornate wooden columns, vibrant mosaics, intricate geometric Arabic tiling and exuberant gardens, you are sure to be overcome by the grandeur of it all. Knowing we had the day to spend in the grounds, I didn’t want to miss any nook or cranny and found myself on an exploratory journey, cherishing the moments and imagining what it would have been like to live at what was the last Islamic Kingdom in Western Europe.  

Sacromonte District

Located north of the Alhambra, we were drawn to this picturesque neighborhood, for its thriving gypsy community, who to this day reside in caves which are burrowed in the walls of a cliff. The walk up was steep but well worth it for the unique cave dwellings and quaint white-washed homes adorned with colorful plates and tiled steps.

Albayzin District

Located on a hill opposite the Alhambra, Albayzin is home to the old Muslim quarter; with cobblestone streets, geranium-filled balconies and the sound of pouring water from the numerous fountains. It is an ideal place for wandering and exploring the many streets which are interspersed with quaint squares, lined with cafés and restaurants. If you want to get a breathtaking view of the Alhambra, the San Nicolas Viewpoint is one not to miss. Be sure to go at sunset as the fortress glows red and is a visual feast for the eyes.

In the near future, we will all be back to planning vacations and in doing so, if Andalucía is an appealing destination for you, then plan to spend at least a week there, in order to fully immerse yourself in everything the region has to offer. Stay safe and happy travel planning!